Friday 23 October 2015

Lone Star Grill - Milton Keynes

One of the best things about Milton keynes at the moment is the amazing number of new restaurants revamping and re-opening around. The latest of these is the newly moved and restyled, Lone Star Grill (now in Wolverton), providing a local fix of American Grill diner-style.  




Situated in a couple of rooms just off the main road in Wolverton, the decor is bright, airy and clean. The Jukebox in the corner is a lovely touch and reminded me of my teen years when I swore to myself I would own such a memorising machine (Mrs P hasn't quite let me live that dream out just yet). The decor is a little sparse but I see that as a perfect opportunity to tell us exactly who they are. I know it's easier to throw up a few shabby-chic pictures of fake 50's hotdog adverts or a rodeo poster but why is that? They were all new once you know...

Before the food even showed up we knew we were in the right place as we were instantly tempted to try the milkshakes. I had the mint Oreo while Mrs P opted for the standard Oreo which really hit the spot; thick and creamy they would have been perfect if we could have gone for the 'spiked' alcoholic versions, but we'll have to book a taxi for those next time.




We started with nachos and chicken wings but were not quite prepared for the gargantuan proportions of what followed. The nachos were piping hot and covered in a gooey, melted cheese that clung to each chip like Leonardo DiCaprio on the edge of the Titanic but with an equally predictable conclusion; they went in my gob. I love a good nacho and these were as crunchy as they come. Hidden under them though was a bed of soft, juicy pulled pork that brought a sweetness to the party which was delicious and played very well with the the savoury cheese and the twang of the jalapeƱo. But that chicken, man alive. Not only are they absurd value at 6 quid for 6 pieces being as they are enormous, but the crunchy coating and sticky bbq sauce (we went for the Korean BBQ option) was fabulous. Easily the best fried chicken I've eaten outside of Memphis. I'll be visiting again soon to get me some more of these fellas - I'll just make sure I am very, very hungry.  Seriously.  I'll need to be mega-uber-ultra-hungry.  





For mains, Mrs P had a Little John burger and I went for the ribs. Again, generous doesn't even begin to describe the portions. The burger was homemade and cooked to perfection.  Mrs P gave up eating it with her hands pretty quickly though as it was soon clear this was to be a very messy one. That said, the taste was all there and the irony of the name amused Mrs P all night. My ribs were cooked low and long with meat that fell away from the bone which I'm sure is a crowd pleaser. I have to say that I prefer the texture and depth of flavour you get from a proper smoker, but then again Mrs P reminded me that the Lone Star isn't a smoke house so I shouldn't be so fussy and just enjoy it like everyone else.

We also had the fries in both sweet potato and standard varieties, which were perfectly pleasant; we thought they could have done with more crispness but generally enjoyed them both. I also couldn't resist the fried pickles against which I compared my experience of these little beauties from the US. This time the tart green gems were suitably twangy and while the Southern style batter was a bit heavy and became a little soggy over the meal, they were still seriously tasty.  I'd like to claim I managed most of the (massive) bowl, but the humungous portions overcame me in the end.



By this point of the evening we were starting to struggle against our respective trouser restraints but we simply couldn't resist diving in for a final pud because, as Mrs P likes to say: 'pudding goes into a different part of the tummy.' OK, so we forgot to take a picture early enough before the damage was done, but at least we kept the lime so it still looked pretty.  This zesty beast finished off our evening in fine form.  



Fit to burst, we ended our American-athon and rolled out of the Lone Star already planning our return for some more of those chicken wings.  So with that in mind, what did I think of the Lone Star Grill? Well, I see them at the very start of their journey. In the UK, 'Americana' is a genre which is dominated by the TGI Fridays, Ed's and Buddys of this world and as far as I can understand it, the habit of hanging random items such as bikes, canoes or aeroplane propellers from the walls and ceilings seemed so endearing that it caught the attention of many different chains in an effort to make a restaurant/pub/office space more appealing and less corporate. They failed miserably of course because all the  stores that opened all had the same pictures, the same furniture and the same canoe's, the more fake and the more corporate they became. 

And so, as the general 'American' food style is fairly standard, how do the new breed of American restaurants make their name? The answer is simple and clear; by looking back at what made American food popular in the first place. Before there were TGI's, Frankie and Benny's or even before there were McDonalds, there were diners owned and operated by mom and pop who lived, breathed and embodied the spirit of what became Americana. Back then, it wasn't retro, it was just Tuesday. 

Injecting personality into the dining experience is one way to ensure a meal turns from just good food, into a really memorable experience for a diner. Personality is never more important than in a service industry and in a crowded restaurant market it's even more so. And that perhaps, is where The Lone Star are only at the start of their journey. For example, as we sat chatting to our friendly and very attentive waitress, she briefly mentioned the owner and the lightning bolt struck; if a man known to his staff as 'Big Kev' opens an American diner, why on earth is he not an integral part of this place? A cuisine built on the premise of generosity should surely be fronted and presented by the representation of that belief? That would then filter down to how the Lone Star creates it's personality, the genuine one-to-one interaction and commitment would leave it's mark and fill the walls not with over-thought examples of a corporate marketing team, but honest and real illustrations of the families, customers and staff that make up the community that will support it. 

Lone Star can't afford to be just another diner, they have to show us why they are different. They have the makings of something seriously stella and I'm looking forward to it.

We were guests of the Lone Star for this visit, but all opinions are very much my own.

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